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Adelaide and the Fleurieu Peninsula
October 2003
Adelaide and the Fleurieu Peninsula October 2003 We passed through Port Augusta mid-afternoon headed for the Spear Creek Caravan Park. A slight dissension as to the correct road to turn off proved both of us correct. I had opted for the road to Wilmington approximately 10 kms. out of Port Augusta and this is the one we took. You turn left after approximately 5 kms. on to a single track road then right into Spear Creek, which is a working sheep station. Taking care to shut all the gates behind us and negotiating the sheep on the road we meandered into the foothills of the Flinders Ranges. Spear Creek Caravan Park is nestled in the foothills of the ranges and offers powered sites on a level area and also in the bush, for a more secluded camp, and un-powered sites also in the bush. This is basically a bush camp with full amenities, well see below

This was a park with a difference, the brochure indicated they had a restaurant and bar available and whilst we could see the restaurant no mention was made of it when we booked in, in the kitchen! The sites were quite spacious and the scent from the surrounding gum trees and the bird song was lovely, unfortunately this park was the only one we came across that allowed dogs where they were actually a little annoying. Several patrons had those small ‘yappy’ dogs and they yapped at each other a fair bit thus destroying the tranquillity of the bush.
The ablution blocks were interesting! There was a ladies toilet block and a gent’s toilet block, spotlessly clean and spacious and there were the showers. The showers were all large, individual cubicles for either sex.
The day we arrived was one of the warmer ones we experienced during this trip which meant that it was a little dry and dusty around the place but it was lovely. There are plenty of walks available into the foothills and around the property and two or three times a week the owner runs ridge top sunset tours using an 8 wheel open bus/truck. The day we were there was not one of the tour days so we walked up and admired the sunset over the water in the distance.
As night fell it became chilly and one considerate camper lit a fire in the large fire pit so several companionable hours were spent chatting and drinking until bedtime.
Spear Creek is close enough to Port Augusta for shopping and would make an ideal base for exploring the Southern Flinders Ranges.

As we were planning to stay in Adelaide for a week or more selection of a good caravan park was essential, but when you don’t know the city it is difficult. Our first thoughts leant towards the Adelaide Shores park, however, we noted from the map that it was close to the airport so scratched that one. A friend we were planning to visit in Adelaide suggested Brownhill Creek Caravan Park while other Adelaide residents we met en-route suggested different parks closer to the city. We agonised over the decision, as our friend had no knowledge of what people expect of a caravan park and the travellers we had met were experienced in that department. However, we opted for Brownhill Creek, and were not disappointed.

A few panic attacks on the journey to Adelaide with me worrying about navigating in a large city, something I do not like doing. The panic was groundless, the main road we were on by-passed the centre of the city and headed to exactly where we needed to be. The only hiccup came when I, with my head in the map said “straight on”, meaning, keep on the same road, didn’t see there was a dog-leg ahead which literally was straight on! A quick turnaround saw us back on the main road and just around the bend was our turnoff.

Brownhill Creek Caravan Park is situated in the suburb of Mitcham and is literally nestled at the base of the Adelaide Foothills. It is a very attractive park, plenty of trees and grass and the creek running alongside, with resident ducks and ducklings. Koalas (wild but friendly) visited us during our stay at the park and it was awesome to see these gorgeous creatures in their native habitat. There was a mother and baby and the baby used to come down the tree to see what the fuss was all about, pose for some photographs then run back to mum!!
The park was a ten-minute walk to the local bus stop, which we utilised rather than try and park in Adelaide itself and approximately a ten-minute drive to the local shopping centre. Everything about the park was great; the owners were very friendly and helpful, the ablution blocks spotless, camp kitchen, television room, swimming pool (not required during our visit) all there, all clean and ready for use.

I have to admit I loved Adelaide, if we didn’t already live in the best city in Australia I think I could live in Adelaide. The central shopping mall was great, the Adelaide Markets were absolutely awesome, and the architecture in and around the city was a joy to discover. Transport around the city centre (other than foot power) was simple with the free bus service, and the bus services out to the suburbs were frequent and affordable. Had a ride on the Glenelg Tram, which was a great experience, and explored the shore side suburb. They have some wonderful cafes and restaurants there and whilst the developers are making vast inroads into the coastal strip we still thought it was great.
Another day found us on the highway heading to Hahndorf. The drive south from Adelaide is so beautiful I was amazed. Hahndorf itself we were a little disappointed in (maybe it had something to do with the rain and the wind, or maybe after recently spending a fortnight in Germany it just didn’t compare to the real thing). However, we spent a pleasant day exploring the surrounding area, had great fun watching the school children’s faces at the Melba Chocolate Factory, bought myself some slippers to keep the cold away at night at the Onkaparinga shop and just marvelled at the greenness of the countryside. A visit to the summit of Mt. Lofty brought home the fragility of such beautiful countryside when you read the memorial plaques to the Ash Wednesday Bush Fires. The visitors’ centre at Mt. Lofty is very comprehensive and there are some lovely walks around the area, needless to say the view right across the city to the ocean is magnificent. A visit to the Mt. Lofty Botanical Gardens was another highlight. We chose a fantastic day for this outing and walking around the beautiful gardens and lakes was great. Some other places on our visiting list were Waterfall Gully, very close to Adelaide and very attractive, Cleland Wildlife Park, wombats, kangaroos, Tasmanian devils, koalas, heaps of birds from the miniature to the large, all within easy walking of each other and highly visible, some of the many antique shops that line the roads leading into Adelaide, Murray Bridge, Hindmarsh Island and much more. As I have mentioned before the Adelaide Central Markets are fantastic, the prices very reasonable and the produce on sale top quality and very varied. We also visited the Brickworks market on a Sunday. This is a quite large and very varied market, on many different levels and even has stalls and an art gallery in one of the old Brickwork chimneys.

When we initially started to plan this trip we were a little concerned that we might not find enough to do, six weeks is a reasonably long time and everything in South Australia seemed so close together and whilst the glossy brochures are good we didn’t expect to find so much of interest – we were wrong – there are still many things in Adelaide alone that we didn’t get to see. Next time.
One of our must sees whilst we were in South Australia was the fairy penguins and we had planned to visit Kangaroo Island, however it was suggested to us to go to Victor Harbour and see them at Granite Island, a far most cost effective method. We travelled south from Adelaide towards the Fleurieu Peninsula, turning off to visit Strathalbyn. What a lovely little place, more antique shops, very nice cafes, delightful, even though I could have cried – there was so much beautiful antique glassware in this town but I refrained from buying any due to space restrictions in the van and the danger of breakage. If we come back I will be better prepared for purchasing.

Onwards led us to Goolwa another little gem and then to the Port Elliott Caravan Park. Port Elliott is about 5 kms. from Victor Harbour and the caravan park is right on the ocean front, a fantastic park with wonderful views over the ocean. Port Elliott itself (as we eventually discovered after driving past the entrance to the best part for two days) is another little gem with great cafes and restaurants some lovely little shops and the pre-requisite fantastic bakery. Victor Harbour is a fairly large town with all the recognised shopping facilities, two caravan parks (neither of which are close to the ocean) and the causeway leading to Granite Island. During the day time there is a horse drawn tram that trundles across the 2kms. however, at night, when you go to see the penguins you walk. The fairy penguin tour starts when the sun has gone down and costs $12.00. The night we were there approximately forty people turned up for it and we were split into small groups each with a guide with a torch. No flashlight photography is allowed and no other torches are allowed as the bright lights temporarily blind the penguins.

We were treated to a marvellous display by these little creatures coming home to roost after a day at sea, the noise as their chicks started calling them was very loud, and it was wonderful to see them waddling up over the rocks and across the pathways no more than a metre away from you. They look so beautiful that you feel you would like to stroke and cuddle a penguin, apparently though they are covered in ticks and stink to high heaven, so that idea is blown away. The tour lasts approximately an hour and the night we were there we counted about fifty penguins.

Our drive back to Adelaide took us through the McLaren Vale wine district, acres and acres of vines and olive trees. We detoured off the main highway to have a look at McLaren Vale itself that turned out to be quite an attractive small town. The visitors and wine information centre was excellent and the staff were extremely helpful and knowledgeable. We only visited the one winery, Hardy’s, which is in the main town centre and, therefore, very accessible. The old buildings were lovely, the grounds very well kept and attractive and the wine is a pretty good drop also. Close to the winery is the Almond and Olive train, old train carriages that have been converted into a shop and café. Almonds in all disguises are available for sale, also olives and local pottery and craft wares. A very pleasant time was spent here chatting to the owner and browsing around the shop.
As we wanted to be back in Adelaide that day we didn’t stop too long in the McLaren area but it is another place we would investigate further on another visit.
The reason for returning to Adelaide was to visit their 4-wd show on the Sunday and have a look at (and possibly purchase) a new caravan. We were a little disappointed in the show compared to what we are used to in Perth, and have to say that the best thing about it was the entrance price – only $10.00. There were a few caravans there but not many, perhaps because it was the caravan and camping show in a few weeks time, but there was heaps of camping equipment to look at and of course 4 wd machines of all shapes and sizes.
From Adelaide we are headed up into the Barossa Valley and that, as they say, is another story.

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