The Eyre Peninsula
October 2003
Leaving Ceduna after a very wild and woolly night, when the wind blew and the rain came down
in torrents, the morning dawned bright, clear and cool, and we were packed up and on the road
to Streaky Bay by 9 o’clock.
Stopped at Smoky Bay for a quick look around, the only shop we could see was attached to the caravan park, which is right next to the beach, which wasn’t looking too attractive today mainly due to the wind and rain which had deposited masses of seaweed on the beach, but there were several beach shelters to keep the sun off and in good weather. From first impressions the town was not a hive of activity but a quiet retreat.
It’s a very pleasant 100 odd kilometre drive from Ceduna to Streaky Bay and we covered the distance quite quickly. As we drove into the town we were both very surprised at how large it was, there are two streets of shops with a supermarket in each plus the prerequisite (as we discovered on our trip through South Australia) bakery plus an assortment of other shops and of course the pub. We drove first to the caravan park which again was a very pleasant surprise, they had sites right on the beachfront, the ablution blocks were spotless and the other amenities included, barbecue shelters with tables and a camp kitchen which you had to pay a fee of $2.00 a day to use. We had never come across this before but if you think about it the main people using a camp kitchen are those who do not have powered sites and those of us with powered sites pay quite a few dollars more than for an un-powered one.
The park is only a short walk from the town, albeit uphill, and was really great. The pelican population was huge, especially around 5 pm when the fishing persons were cleaning their catch, and the pelicans were a delight to watch as the first flew at low level to the cleaning tables and then fought for the scraps.
As I said we were surprised at how large Streaky Bay was, it has two supermarkets, countless other shops and a fantastic pub! Wednesday, Thursday and Friday they have a $6.00 lunch menu with a choice of about six meals. The meals were quite large and well prepared and presented.
We spent three days exploring around the Streaky Bay area. There are several short drives around the town out on to the headlands and Cape Bauer. One took us to the whistling rocks and the blowholes. The whistling rocks are caused by the pressure of the water being forced through the eroded rocks and make quite a musical noise, the blow holes which are close by need to be looked at with great care, in trying to get a better angle for a photograph of one, Clive nearly fell down another, they are not marked and you must watch your step. Unfortunately the pressure of the water wasn’t enough when we were there for them to actually blow but you could hear the water rising up the passage then crashing back into the ocean.
Another day we visited Point Labatt to see the sea lion colony. The cold, wet and windy weather was still with us and as we stood on the viewing platform above the sea lions all one could see to start with was a large mound of darkness on the rocks, but the mound started to move and one or two sea lions came out and ‘walked’ across the rocks. They were so beautiful to watch you felt you wanted to be down there and cuddling them, but the viewing area is quite high up. I understand there are one or two companies that organise boat tours where you can get more up close and personal with these gorgeous creatures but we didn’t take one. We stood and watched the sea lions for a long time, watching them getting in an out of the water, playing with each other and just lying in a heap on the rocks, it was wonderful.
Travelling back to Streaky Bay via the main road we visited ‘Murphy’s Haystacks’ these, to give them their correct name are inselborgs (hope I’ve spelt it correctly), rocks that are thousands of years old. Legend is that as the coaches used to pass by on the main road people would ask what were those rocks, as they were on land owned by the Murphy family, the travellers were told they were Murphy’s haystacks. It was fascinating wandering around these rock formations, and wondering what those people long ago thought about such strange shapes not having the benefit of a plaque explaining it to them. We also visited Eyre’s Waterhole, which is a few kilometres out of town. It never ceases to amaze me how these pioneers found water in such remote areas.
While in Streaky Bay we found the local supplier of fresh Oysters who charged only $5.00 a dozen. We are not great oyster lovers but we bought 2 dozen and tried some fried with worcester sauce and bacon. and also fried with sweet chilli sauce and the last few we gave to another couple to try in their own way. The weather has been very up and down, wet, windy and cold, brilliant sunshine, you name it we had it.
Leaving Streaky Bay we headed to Coffin Bay via Venus Bay where we stopped and had a coffee at the caravan park shop, which again is right on the beach and Elliston which we had a drive around but did not stop. The drive to Coffin Bay was lovely, fields of bright yellow canola, white lupin and purple Paterson’s curse (WA) or Salvation Jane (SA) against a backdrop of dark green hills and grey sky, was quite spectacular. There were a lot of stunning views over the ocean as you drive along, beautiful beaches and rock formations.
Driving in to Coffin Bay was reminiscent of Airlie Beach, but there the similarity stopped. We had imagined Coffin Bay to be as large if not larger than Streaky Bay. It was not. In fact it is a very small township, with I might add an exceptionally good coffee shop. We found it very disappointing that you cannot actually wander along the beachfront. This is all private property. There is a pathway, through the properties between the houses and the jetties but you’re walking through people’s backyards and I personally felt uncomfortable doing this.
The caravan park wasn’t bad, however, the sites were very sloping so a lot of adjustment had to be made to level the caravan, and water views were mere glimpses. Nevertheless the ablution blocks were clean and spacious even if the sinks were designed for people a lot shorter than I (5’5”), and the park is right next door to one of the two local shops and takeaway outlet. A lot of people I have spoken to rave about Coffin Bay, personally we were a little disappointed in it (probably expecting too much), but having said that we spent a few nights there. Coffin Bay oysters were $6-7.00 a dozen
Coffin Bay is only approx. 40 kilometres away from Port Lincoln so on the Sunday we took a drive over. Much to our surprise the larger supermarkets were open for business, so we did a little shopping, had lunch at a waterside pub, very good value for money at $6.00, help yourself to as much as you like, and wandered around the town. We were very impressed to see they are still utilising buildings constructed in the 1800’s, the buildings have naturally been renovated but the main structure and facade is still there. (Unfortunately in West Australia we tend to demolish and rebuild a little too much for my liking. Whilst in Port Lincoln we visited the tuna boat harbour – wow are those boats BIG. This is a new development with housing, cafes and moorings and is very attractive, I could live in one of those homes.
On the Monday we visited the Yalunda Flats (or Footrot Flats as Clive will insist on calling it) show. This community is about a 30 minute drive through some lovely countryside and is the epitome of the Country Show. There is no town here only the areas show ground. There was a lot of horse riding events, judging of the chickens and sheep, hay bale tossing, a pavilion full of country wares to be judged and sold and the highlight for me, a gentleman making butter right from scratch. Yes, he milked the cow, separated the milk, and then churned it until there was beautiful fresh butter. He had a lot of suggestions on what should be done at what point in time from ladies and gentlemen in the audience who were familiar with the process, but for those of us who had never seen it before it was a great experience. The taste test was fantastic!!!
Whilst looking at the wool classing competition, Carol was asked to give her opinion on two of the entrants. Which one do you think I the softest? The judge asked Carol! She felt both fleeces like an expert, and said this one pointing to the best one, that’s what I thought said the judge. Carol is now available to assist in judging at any royal shows!(only kidding).
Tuesday saw us on the road again – still undecided as to where to stop overnight we steadily drove up the east coast of the peninsula. There were some spectacular views over the ocean but we kept driving. Turned off at Cowell for a cup of coffee and a break. It looks like a very nice small town. Plenty of shops, at least one delicious bakery, and two caravan parks. We have put it on the list to perhaps stay on another visit.
Through Whyalla with all its factories and machinery and up to Port Augusta and on to Spear Creek Caravan Park for the night.
The Eyre Peninsula was a lovely relaxing break after the Nullarbor crossing. Weather permitting we would have liked to stay longer in Streaky Bay, time permitting we would have liked to stop at Cowell for a night or two. The roads (even the gravel ones) were great, no problems at all, the people very friendly and helpful. There are many small bays on the Eyre Peninsula, all it seems with a caravan park. The ones we stayed in were great, no real complaints at all but obviously I can’t comment on the others. Most of the bays we called in at were very small communities and the caravan park and shop plus a few residences were it, there was usually either a club or pub in the vicinity but these townships were definitely rest and relaxation and fishing only.
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